Put the fish into a pan with the bay leaf and 300 ml (1/2 pint) milk and poach for about 10 minutes. Strain, reserving the liquid.

Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in 50 g (2 oz) flour and cook, stirring for 1 - 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and gradually add the reserved liquid and 150 ml (1/4 pint) milk. Return to the heat and simmer until thickened, then stir in the flaked fish, gherkins, capers, lemon rind and seasonings. Leave until cool.

Divide the mixture into twelve and shape into balls with well floured hands. Season 50 g (2 oz) flour and coat the fish in it.

Make the batter: sift the remaining flour with a pinch of salt. Make a well in the centre and beat in the egg and remaining milk.

Heat the oil to 180°C (350°F). Dip the fish in the batter and fry for about 3 minutes until puffed and golden in colour.