Extract the meat from the claws and body of the crabs and set aside.

Now break up the shells of the legs and claws - put them all in a small washing-up bowl, cover them with a teatowel to prevent splinters from flying around, and pound with the rounded end of a wooden rolling pin.

In a large heavy pan, soften the onion, carrot and celery in the butter or oil, then pack the pounded shell "on top.

Warm the brandy in a small saucepan or ladle, light it, and pour it flaming over the shell and vegetables.

When the flames have subsided, add three quarters of the stock with all the wine, and leave to simmer for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, boil the rice in the remaining stock until it is soft and creamy.

Strain the soup into another saucepan, making sure that you get every drop of liquid through the sieve. (If you were using lobster or prawns, you would then further pound the shell to a fine puree to add to the soup, but crab shell is too hard for this.)

Gently re heat the soup.

Cream the brown crab meat and whisk it in. Stir in the flakes of white meat.

Process or blend the cooked rice and tomatoes until smooth, or push through a wire sieve, and add these to the soup, stirring carefully all the time. Check the seasoning and add freshly ground pepper if you like.

Serve straight away, or gently re heat when you are ready to eat.