Preheat the oven to fairly hot 200 °C (Gas Mark 6, 400°F). Prick the chicken all over, then rub over the lemon juice. Set aside.

Using a mortar and pestle, or grinder, crush the coriander seeds, peppercorns, cardamom seeds and cloves. Sift the spices through a fine strainer into a small bowl. Stir in the ginger, salt and chilli powder. Using a small wooden spoon, cream in half the butter to make a smooth paste. Rub the paste all over the chicken, then transfer the chicken to a flameproof casserole. Put the casserole into the oven and roast the chicken for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, melt the remaining butter in a saucepan. Add the onions and fry until they are golden brown. Remove from the heat and stir in the cream, saffron mixture, almonds and raisins. Pour over the chicken.

Reduce the oven temperature to moderate 180°C (Gas Mark 4, 350°F) and roast the chicken, basting every 10 minutes with the cream and almond mixture, for a further 1 hour, or until it is cooked through and tender.

Remove from the oven and transfer the chicken to a carving board. Carve into serving pieces and arrange them on a warmed serving dish. Keep hot while you finish the sauce.

Skim off most of the fat from the surface of the cooking liquid. Return to low heat and simmer the sauce for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Pour over the chicken pieces and serve at once.