method
1. Scrape off the scales from the fish and cut off the sharp fins. Make diagonal cuts along both sides. Wash and dry thoroughly. Place a sprig of rosemary in the cavity of each of the smaller fish with half the lemon slices; or two sprigs and all the lemon in the large fish.
2. To grill (broil), place in a foil-lined pan, brush lightly with 1 - 2 tablespoons oil and grill (broil) under a moderate heat for about 5 minutes each side or until cooked through, turning carefully.
3. To bake: place the fish in a foil-lined dish or roasting tin brushed with oil, and brush the fish with the rest of the oil. Cook in a preheated oven, 190°C/375°F/Gas Mark 5 for about 30 minutes for the small fish or 45-50 minutes for the large fish, until the thickest part of the fish is opaque.
4. For the sauce: crush the salt and capers with the garlic in a pestle and mortar if available and then gradually work in the water. Alternatively, put it all into a food processor or blender and switch on until smooth.
5. Bruise the bay leaves and remaining sprigs of rosemary and put in a bowl. Add the garlic mixture, lemon juice or vinegar and oil and pound together until the flavours are released. Season with pepper.
6. Place the fish on a serving dish and, if liked, carefully remove the skin. Spoon some of the sauce over the fish and serve the rest separately. Garnish with fresh bay leaves and lemon wedges.
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