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This yeasted roll is served all the year round in Hungary as a coffee-time pastry.

Poppy seed filling

Walnut filling

1. Prepare a sponge batter. Warm the milk to blood heat and sprinkle over the crumbled yeast; mix in 100 g (4 oz) flour taken from the recipe and 5 g ( 1 tsp) caster sugar. Beat well. Cover and leave to rise until at least double in bulk.

2. Meanwhile, sift the flour and salt into a large bowl, cut in the butter and rub to a crumb texture.

3. Mix in the sugar and egg yolks, then pour on the sponge batter. Beat in enough soured cream to make a not too soft dough.

4. Knead thoroughly until the dough becomes elastic and throws large air bubbles.

5. Leave in the bowl closely covered with a cloth, or place the dough in a large, lightly oiled polythene bag and seal. Set in a warm place to rise for about 3 hours until it has at least doubled in bulk.

6. While the dough is rising make the filling.

Poppy seed filling

1. Boil the milk and pour it over the ground poppy seeds; leave to infuse and swell.

2. Gently dissolve the granulated sugar in 30 ml (2 tbsp) water, sieve the seed and stir into the syrup; draw off the heat.

3. Stir in the lemon zest and grated apple. Cool before using.

Walnut filling

1. Dissolve the sugar in the milk to make a syrup. Stir in the walnuts, and draw off the heat.

2. Mix in the lemon zest and grated apple. Cool before using.

Simple filling

1. sprinkle a mixture of 140 g (5 oz) granulated sugar, 2 tsp ground cinnamon and 1/2 tsp ground clove over the dough before rolling it up.

2. Turn the risen dough on to a floured pastry board, knock it back for a moment or two, then divide it into two, replacing the unused piece in the covered bowl or bag.

3. Roll out the dough into a rectangle 0.5 cm (1/4 in) thick.

4. Spread generously with the chosen filling to within 2 cm (3/4 in) of the edge and roll up carefully, tucking in both ends so that the filling cannot leak out. Transfer the roll to a lightly greased baking sheet, with the open seam underneath. Brush lightly with beaten egg and leave to rise for a further 30 minutes. Brush again with beaten egg and prick all over with a fork. Bake in the preheated oven at 180°C (350°F) Gas 4 for 1 hour. Finish the reserve dough in the same way.

5. Serve cut in slices. The pastries keep well for at least a week.

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