method
1. Rinse split gram in a sieve under running cold water; drain and then soak in a bowl of cold water for 4 hours.
2. While they are soaking, make the dough. If possible, use chapati (ata) flour, a wholemeal flour sold by Indian grocers and by many specialist food stores. Sift it into a large mixing bowl, add 1/2 tsp salt, 2 tbsp hot ghee and stir in, gradually adding just enough cold water to make a firm dough. Knead for 10 minutes then shape into a ball, wrap in cling film and leave to rest for at least 30 minutes.
3. Make the garam masala: heat a non-stick frying pan, add the peppercorns and the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds and toast for 30 seconds over a moderate heat, stirring continuously. Remove from the heat; grind the seeds finely in a spice mill or use a pestle and mortar; put through a fine sieve to trap the pieces of coriander skins and discard these.
4. Once the lentils have finished soaking, place them in the food processor with a little cold water and process briefly until they form a coarse, thick puree. Heat the remaining ghee in a large frying pan and fry the chopped chilli pepper gently over a low heat for 2 - 3 minutes, stirring continuously; add the lentil puree and 1/2 tsp salt. Cook, stirring over a slightly higher heat for a few minutes, until the puree darkens and thickens further. Remove from the heat and leave to cool before stirring in the garam masala.
5. Start making the puris about 30 minutes before you plan to serve them. Knead the dough for 2 - 3 minutes and divide into 10 pieces of even size; shape these into balls between your palms and drop them into a large bowl; remove 2 and cover the bowl with cling film to prevent the dough from drying out.
6. Flatten these first 2 balls with your palms and then roll out on a lightly floured pastry board with a floured rolling pin to form 2 thin, matching discs just over 3 in (8 cm) in diameter. Have a cup of cold water standing ready.
7. Place 2 tbsp of the lentil filling in the centre of one disc, dipping your finger into the cold water, moisten all round the edge of the disc and then cover neatly with the other disc, pressing the edges together to achieve a good seal. Do exactly the same with the remaining dough and filling. You will have 5 puris ready for deep-frying.
8. Heat plenty of oil in a very large frying pan or deep-fryer and when hot but not smoking, place 3 of the puris in the pan and fry until they puff up and are pale golden brown; keep spooning the very hot oil over the exposed surfaces of the puris. Drain and keep hot while you fry the remaining 2.
9. Serve at once, with a bowl of raita made by mixing the yoghurt with a pinch of salt and with the finely sliced spring onion.
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