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Marmalade-making is similar to jam-making and nearly all the same rules apply. As in jam-making, the fruit is first simmered gently, usually in an uncovered pan, until it is thoroughly softened. It is this long, slow cooking which releases the setting agent pectin. After this, the sugar is added and stirred over gentle heat until dissolved. The marmalade is then boiled rapidly, with a full, rolling boil, until setting point is reached. The test for setting point are the same as for jam-making.

These are the essential differences: the peel of citrus fruit takes longer to soften than the fruit used for jams. For this reason, a pressure cooker can be particularly useful in cutting down cooking time.

Because most of the pectin is in the pips and the pith, rather than in the fruit pulp or fruit juice, these are important ingredients in marmalade recipes. The pips and pith should not be discarded (unless they are being replaced by pectin stock) but should be tied loosely in muslin and cooked with the fruit until the pectin has been extracted. If the muslin bag is tied to the handle of the pan, it can easily be removed before adding the sugar. When the bag is removed, squeeze it thoroughly between 2 plates and pour the resulting liquid into the preserving pan. Because citrus fruit is rich in pectin it requires ample acid and sugar to produce a good result. Many jam recipes use an equal weight of fruit and sugar, whereas with thick marmalades twice as much sugar as fruit can be used.


tips for making marmalade

1) All citrus fruits should be only just ripe, and must be used as soon as possible.

2) It is not usually easy for the inexperienced to distinguish between the true Seville orange and other imported bitter oranges. Sevilles have a superior flavour, but ordinary bitter oranges can replace them in the recipes.

3) To peel citrus fruit easily, soak in boiling water for 1-2 minutes to loosen the skin.

4) To cut the peel into shreds, use a very sharp stainless knife and resharpen it from time to time. Drop the shreds into a bowl of water as soon as they are cut, to prevent them drying out. The peel will swell slightly during cooking. For shredding large quantities, it is worthwhile using a special xmachine which cuts the peel quickly and easily, although not as evenly as when done by hand. If a coarse cut marmalade is preferred, use the method on (Dark Coarse-cut Marmalade). Alternatively, with some other methods, the uncooked fruit can be put through a coarse mincer, but this looks less attractive and gives a paste-like texture.

5) Many recipes used to recommend soaking the peel, etc for 24-48 hours to soften it before cooking. This is no longer considered necessary, but it may be convenient to do so, if, for instance, the fruit cannot be prepared and cooked on the same day, or if particularly tough skins such as grapefruit are being used. The softening effect of long soaking on the peel is minimal but some pectin is extracted, so setting point is reached more rapidly.

6) The sugar should not be added until the peel will disintegrate when a piece is pressed between thumb and forefinger, and the quantity in the pan has reduced considerably. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, then boil the marmalade briskly until setting point is reached. This should be after 15-20 minutes boiling, but depends to some extent on the quantity and recipe.


potting and covering marmalade

Skim as for jams immediately after the setting point is reached. If the scum is not removed immediately, it subsides on the peel and is then extremely difficult to skim off.

To prevent the peel rising to the top of the pots, leave the skimmed marmalade to cool undisturbed in the pan until a thin skin begins to form on the surface. Then stir to distribute the peel (do this gently to avoid air bubbles). Do not stir clear jelly marmalades.

Using a small jar or cup pour the marmalade while really hot into warm, clean, dry jars, filling them right to the brim (since marmalade shrinks considerably on cooling). The modern jam jar with a twist-top is ideal for keeping marmalade in good condition especially in centrally heated homes. The twist-top must be put on the preserve as soon as it is potted as it acts as a seal.

Alternatively, with plain-necked jars, a transparent cellulose or waxed disc to fit the surface of the marmalade should be pressed on the hot preserve. The top cellulose cover can be put on at once while the marmalade is still very hot, but it is usually easier to wait until the preserve is quite cold. Never put it on warm marmalade as this encourages the growth of mould. Slightly dampen one side of the cover and place that side uppermost over the marmalade before securing with a rubber band or string.

Label the jars with the type of preserve, the date, and any other details about the fruit or the recipe which will be of interest later. Store preserves in a cool, dry place, preferably dark. The store for marmalade that are not sealed with twist-tops should have some ventilation.


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