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When stewing or poaching fresh fruit, it should be cooked in a syrup or other liquid at just below boiling point; the water should just shiver. If stewed, it is cooked at a slightly higher heat in a covered pan. The syrup is usually made from sugar and water, or other liquid, with extra flavouring sometimes added. The quantities of sugar and water will depend on the sweetness and ripeness of the fruit; those given below are only rough guides.


making the syrup

To make the syrup, put the sugar and liquid into a large saucepan with any solid flavouring. Bring to the boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 3-4 minutes. Skim and use as required. The fruit can be cooked either in a saucepan over a direct gentle heat or in a casserole in a moderate to cool oven. The second method takes longer but preserves the shape of the fruit better.

The time taken depends on the type of fruit, its size, and ripeness. Most cook in 20 minutes or less in a saucepan, but take twice as long in a casserole. Use a stainless steel, aluminium or enamelled pan or an earthenware casserole. Do not use copper or brass. When the fruit is cooked, remove it with a perforated spoon, drain well, and transfer to a serving bowl. Discard any solid flavourings from the syrup and boil until it is well reduced. Pour it over the fruit and serve either hot or cold. (Note: individual flavourings are suggested below as appropriate, but any fruit can be stewed in natural or canned juice; brandy or other fortified wine can be added to the syrup.)


apples and pears

Peel, core, and leave whole if small, quarter if large. Make a syrup with 100 g sugar and 250 ml water (more if the fruit is very hard) per 500 g fruit. Flavour with lemon rind, cloves or cinnamon stick. Colour the syrup with cochineal, if liked, or replace some of the water with white wine or cider. Put the prepared fruit into the liquid immediately to preserve its colour; it must be completely covered by the liquid. Stew either in a saucepan or in a casserole in a moderate oven. Cooking pears may take 4-5 hours in the oven.


currants and other soft berry fruits

Clean and prepare the fruit; remove stalks from currants. Make a syrup with 100 g sugar and 125 ml water per 500 g fruit. Either steep (soak) the fruit in the cooled syrup and then poach very gently; or, if it is to be served cold, reduce the syrup by boiling, put the fruit into the hot syrup, and leave it to cool.


gooseberries

Top and tail, removing a little skin from the tail end to allow the syrup to penetrate; then wash. Make a syrup with 100 g sugar and 125-375 ml water (depending on the hardness of the fruit) per 500 g fruit. Flavour with elderflowers, if available. Poach very gently until the skins crack.


peaches and apricots

Peel, stone, and halve or quarter the fruit, depending on its size. Make a syrup with 100 g sugar and 250 ml water per 500 g fruit. Flavour with almond or vanilla essence or with a few kernels from the fruit stones. Replace some of the water with white wine if liked.


plums, greengages, and damsons

Wash the fruit, remove the stalks, and the stones if liked. Make a syrup with 100 g sugar and 250 ml water per 500 g fruit. Flavour with lemon rind, cloves, cinnamon stick, or with a few kernels from the fruit stones. Replace some of the water with red wine, for red plums, if liked. Stew either in a saucepan or in a casserole in a moderate oven.


rhubarb

String older garden rhubarb, but just wipe young forced fruit. Cut into 2 cm lengths, lay in a casserole, and cover with soft light brown sugar. Flavour with lemon rind, root ginger or cinnamon stick. Do not add water. Cover and bake very gently, overnight if possible, in a very cool oven at 110°C, gas mark 1/4.


stewed dried fruit (eg. prunes, apricots, peaches, figs, apple rings)

Wash the fruit thoroughly in tepid water. Put it in a large bowl, cover with fresh water or cold tea, allowing 750 ml liquid per 500 g dried fruit, and leave to soak for 12-24 hours. Drain, and measure out 250 ml liquid (use fresh water if the fruit was soaked in tea) for cooking each 500 g soaked fruit. Add sugar as required: 50-100 g per 500 ml liquid for apricots, peaches, apple rings; 25 g per 500 ml for other fruit. Add either a strip of lemon rind or a piece of cinnamon stick (for prunes), and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat, simmer for 3-4 minutes, skim, and add the fruit. Simmer until tender, then drain the fruit with a perforated spoon, and transfer to a serving bowl. Discard any solid flavourings from the syrup and boil it until it is well reduced. Pour it over the fruit and serve either hot or cold. Alternatively, cook the fruit in the liquid without sugar. Add it when boiling down the syrup.


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